A Guide to Leith and Portobello, Edinburgh

Edinburgh is one of my favourite cities in the world. Not only is it packed full of gorgeous architecture and loaded with history, but it also has some beautiful wildlife and its very own beach. We’ve all heard about the most popular tourist destinations such as the Castle, Grassmarket and the Royal Mile, but why not head out of town for a stroll along the coast?

Here’s the route that I took, starting in Stockbridge, following the Water of Leith Walkway into Leith and then along the coast to Portobello.

The Water of Leith

A beautiful, partially wooded footpath that follows the canal all the way through Edinburgh, right out to where it meets the sea in Leith, the Water of Leith Walkway is an easy walk suitable for families, dog walkers and cyclists alike. Or perhaps you’re like me, and are after a place suitable for some quiet reflection while you wander through the peaceful surroundings. Regardless, if you’re walking all the way to Portobello then I would recommend joining the path at Stockbridge and following it all the way out to the sea, before stopping in Leith for some fish and chips. The entire walk is 7.5 miles long and begins in Balerno, a small village just outside of Edinburgh.

There are lots of landmarks to look out for on the way including a collection of statues by Anthony Gormley, which were commissioned by the National Galleries of Scotland and are scattered at various points along the walkway. For the art lovers among you, this article describes where each figure is positioned so that you can tick them off during the walk. Other features to watch out for include the Instagram famous Dean Village and colourful Colinton Tunnel (both situated earlier on in the path and before Stockbridge), the Royal Botanic Gardens and, of course, Leith.

The route itself is well signposted but you can also download a map here. It’s mostly accessible for wheelchairs although there may be sections where you will have to detour slightly.

Leith

Less picturesque than central Edinburgh but still worth a visit, Leith is a great place for a spot of shopping or a bite to eat. There’s a large indoor shopping centre compete with a Vue cinema, fish and chips shops, and a personal favourite, a branch of Pizza Geeks decorated to look like a Tardis.

Grab from an Uber from Leith to King’s Road

There’s not too much to see on this stretch of the coast so I would recommend booking an Uber and alighting at King’s Road, which is where Portobello Beach begins! Perhaps there was more of a scenic walk between Leith and Porty in the past, but it’s currently an area that’s under heavy development and is studded with scaffolding and JCBs. The Uber only takes a few minutes (depending on traffic) and shouldn’t cost much more than a bus ticket.

Walk down the beach to Portobello

You’ve made it! Portobello has two miles of beautiful sand for you to stroll along, dotted with stalls where you can grab yourself an ice cream or three. There’s also a lovely independent bookshop aptly named The Portobello Bookshop, as well as a number of different cafes and restaurants where you can recharge your energy before heading back into town.

Don’t miss out on your chance to visit Edinburgh’s beautiful seafront! It’s the perfect place to pause and take a deep breath, before continuing on with the hustle of bustle of city life.

Further reading

A Visit to Edinburgh Castle

A Guide to Edinburgh’s Bookshops

Inside Topping & Company, Edinburgh

Previous
Previous

Review: Dishoom Edinburgh

Next
Next

15 Uplifting Roald Dahl Quotes