How to Spend a Bookish Weekend in Edinburgh
So you’ve booked a trip to Edinburgh, but you’re not sure how to fit all of your sightseeing into one weekend. Now what?
I’ve got it sorted for you. Here’s my two day itinerary (plus travel days) that will take you around the best of the city, featuring some wonderful bookshops, fascinating history, delicious restaurants and lovely walks. It will leave you enraptured by what you’ve seen but desperate to come back and carry on exploring. Have a brilliant trip!
Friday: Arrive, check in and dinner
Evening
Depending on where you’re based in the country, there are a number of different ways that you can get to Edinburgh.
The first, most obvious, method is to fly - which is relatively inexpensive and definitely the quickest way to get there. It’s just an hour and a half from London Heathrow to Edinburgh City Airport! You can also get the train, which tends to be quite pricy if you’re travelling a long way, but is ideal if you’re based in the north of England. If, like me, you’re on a budget then I’d recommend booking the day off work and travelling up by coach. It takes between 9 and 11 hours depending on when you travel, but can cost as little as £10.50 if you book with National Express, which is a complete bargain.
For accommodation, there are loads of different places to stay depending on your budget and requirements, but if you’re looking for something cheap and cheerful then Cityroomz Edinburgh would be a great choice for you. It’s located very close to the city centre and is great value for money; my friend and I only paid £42 per night for a cosy little room with bunk beds and an ensuite.
Once you’ve arrived in Edinburgh, check into your hotel and then head out for dinner. You’ll probably be tired from the journey so head around the corner and tuck into a delicious Indian meal at Mumbai Diners Club. Just make sure you book in advance as it does get really busy.
Saturday: Bookshops, pastries and boardgames
Morning:
Start off your morning the right way with a delicious pastry at 127. I love this place, the decor is artsy and the pastries are light and fluffy. Plus, if you sit by the window then you’ll have a lovely view of the pretty architecture outside.
When you’re ready, wander over to Grassmarket and walk up past the multicoloured buildings; there’s loads to see here including two Harry Potter shops, The Great Wizard and Museum Context. Keep walking up the hill and stop by the Insta famous bookshop Armchair Books, followed by Edinburgh Books and Peter Bell Books, which are all on the same road.
Once you’ve finished exploring this area, head north and visit the amazing Topping & Company bookshop. Having only opened in 2019, this bookshop is still relatively new but is easily my favourite in Edinburgh, which is really saying something. The shop boasts three floors filled with shelves that reach right up to the ceiling, and adorned with wonderful sliding ladders. They also give out free tea and biscuits!
Stop for a healthy, but delicious, lunch at Hula Cafe. I love their green decor and they have loads of great veggie options on the menu.
Afternoon:
If you can stomach yet another bookshop, then take the bus out to Portobello and visit the Portobello Bookshop. This shop has a very modern vibe and really well curated stock - they also only opened in 2019 and are an absolute delight to visit. While you’re in the area make sure you go for a walk by the beach and stop for a coffee and (another) pastry at Twelve Triangles.
Hop back on the bus to central Edinburgh and put on your history hat ready for a tour around The Real Mary King’s Close. Located on the Royal Mile, this tour will take you on a journey through 400 years of history in a network of now-underground tunnels, where residents once lived, worked and died before a government building was built above. The tour guides are wonderfully charismatic and really bring this historical gem to life - it’s a must visit.
Evening:
Treat yourself to a fab meal at Mezze Mezze, located on Rose Street. This is a tiny little local restaurant that serves brilliant food, and there are lots of delicious carbs on the menu - I recommend ordering lots of potato, falafel and hummus dishes to share. Once you’ve had your fill, spend the rest of the evening whiling away the hours at the Noughts and Coffees Board Game Café.
Sunday: walks, history and a sunday roast
Morning
Fuel up with breakfast at the The Pantry - there’s going to be a lot of walking today!
When you’re ready, wander down to the very picturesque Dean Village and enjoy its cobbled streets and gorgeous architecture. This village was a prolific milling area for more than 800 years, and is now a bubble of calm in the midst of a bustling city. Make sure you follow Hawthorn Bank Lane down to the end and cross the little bridge to take in some stunning views - it’s a great spot for snapping some sweet Instagram photos. Continue your walk and follow the river up to Golden Hare Books.
You have two options before lunch: either stay in the area and visit the nearby Botanical Garden, or take a detour and hike to the top of Arthur’s Seat. If neither of those take your fancy, or if you’re a bit of a history buff, you could even retrace your steps and walk back into town to visit Edinburgh Castle. Take your pick!
Afternoon
After all of that exploring you’ll be pretty hungry, so I recommend that you stop by The Ox for a delicious Sunday roast. This is a lovely little gastro pub with great food; during my visit I devoured their vegetable & nut loaf and wolfed down a sticky toffee pudding for dessert. Just make sure that you book in advance because they get super busy on Sundays.
If you’re a cat person, then you need to stop by the Maison De Moggy cat cafe before you leave Edinburgh. This place is actually amazing, the cats are lovely and the cafe itself has been wonderfully decorated; I didn’t want to leave! This is another place where you’ll need to book in advance - entry is £8 per person and you’re not obliged to purchase any food or drink inside, although it is available.
If there are any other bookshops that you’re desperate to visit then now’s your chance - I’ve written a blog post about my favourites if you need some inspiration.
Evening
Tonight’s dinner recommendation is a lovely Italian restaurant called Vittoria on the Bridge, where you can choose from pizza, pasta and all of the usual Italian fare. It’s a fab restaurant and perfect for your last night in town.
Monday: Check out and Breakfast
Morning
Check out of your hotel and head straight to Dishoom for a delicious breakfast. If you can, nab one of the tables by the window on the second floor for a great view of the city, and order one of their legendary breakfast naans.
Travel home
Suitcase in hand, reluctantly begin your journey home while daydreaming of your next visit to this beautiful Scottish city. There’s so much to see that you’ll want to go back again and again!
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