A Bookshop Guide to Wigtown, Scotland’s National Book Town
(I visited this location during a press trip with Visit Scotland, however, all opinions are my own)
I’m about to let you in on what might just be Scotland’s best kept bookish secret. Hidden down in the south west, deep into the county of Dumfries and Galloway, is a little dwelling named Wigtown. Appointed as Scotland’s national book town in 1998, Wigtown is home to a number of wonderful bookshops, all of which come in various shapes and sizes. You’ll find brand new bestsellers next door to piles of secondhand tomes, with a room out the back dedicated to rare and antiquarian titles. Each bookshop is truly unique and you can spend hours pottering from door to door, filling your arms with new books to take home. In fact, you’d easily need a whole day to really make the most of everything it has to offer, from the cosy bookish cafes to the bookshops with thousands of titles lining their shelves.
So, how many bookshops are there in this mythical town for book lovers? The total number fluctuates year on year as some close and others spring up in their place, and at the moment there’s a total of 14 bookshops open for business, in a town with a total population of just 1000. As well as the booksellers themselves, this bookshop town is home to a number of resident cats, cafes and even a very special bookshop Airbnb.
Here’s my complete guide to all of the wonderful bookshops that you’ll currently find in Scotland’s national book town (as well as where to find those adorable bookshop cats…)
The Bookshops
It only feels right to start this guide with Scotland’s largest second hand bookshop. The Book Shop boasts more than a mile of shelving and stocks around 100,000 books across a number of sprawling rooms. Yes, you read that right. From fiction books for both adults and children right through to non-fiction titles on almost every topic imaginable (there’s even an erotica section!), you’re bound to find something that interests you here.
This very shop is also home to a very lovely cat called Captain, who roams freely around the shelves and loves a fuss from the kitty loving customers. Excitingly, you can find out more about Captain and the rest of the shop’s resident booksellers in Confessions of a Bookseller, a book written by the owner of The Book Shop himself, Shaun Blythell. It’s an insightful and hilarious read that offers a little glimpse into the life of a Wigtown bookseller.
Just one door down from The Book Shop is Curly Tale Books, Wigtown’s children’s bookshop. Browse through an extensive range of brand new children’s books, for babies through to young adults, plus a selection of toys and lovely handmade gifts. I treated myself to an adorable little bookish hedgehog which I found hidden at the back of the shop, and now sits proudly on my bookshelf at home. Further down the road you’ll also stumble upon The Book End Studio, a small shop with a black and white exterior, stocking an eclectic range of books for your perusal.
I adore bookshops that are based in historical buildings, so I was bound to fall in love with The Old Bank Bookshop. Operating from, you guessed it, the building of an old bank, this shop specialises in antiquarian books across a range of subject areas. They also sell new books and have an impressive range of sheet music. The Old Bank Bookshop is home to two more bookshop cats. I was lucky enough to meet the gorgeous Sula during my own visit, who’s a real sweetheart.
If it’s new releases that you’re after then you need to visit Number 11, which is run by the Wigtown Festival Company and stocks a number of fiction and non-fiction books. They also have lots of other fab bookish merchandise on sale, as well as arts and crafts from local makers. The whole shop has a much more modern vibe - it’s definitely worth a visit. Other bookshops to check out nearby include Byre Books, who’s specialist subjects include world mythology and folklore, and Faodail, who sell first editions of selected novels and antiquarian books amongst other antiques, jewellery, glassware and paintings.
If you’ve ever dreamed of running your own bookshop, then this next shop is the place for you. The Open Book is a bookshop Airbnb - the first to ever exist - where you get to actually run the bookshop during your stay. Plus the shop stocks a huge range of fiction and non-fiction books for customers, so make sure that you pop in for a browse even if you’re not running it yourself. Stays can be booked on Airbnb but are often booked up very far in advance so make sure that you plan a few years ahead.
Other bookshops up this end of town include Well Read Books of Wigtown, a relatively new addition to the community having only opened in 2018, and stocking mostly secondhand books with a small range of new paperbacks. Further up the road, where Main Street morphs into High Street, you’ll find the Wigtown Emporium. Not just a bookshop, here you’ll find all sorts of vintage items amongst the books!
If you’re not all bookshopped out by this point, then there’s one more that you need to visit. Head back down Main Street, turn left by the Book End Studio, and then follow the road down until you reach At the Sign of the Dragon. This bookshop has been in business since 1971, and based in Wigtown since 2002. Inside you’ll find a range of both new and second hand books covering science fiction, fantasy, horror, crime and children’s fiction, amongst others. I didn’t make it to this bookshop during my visit but you bet it’ll be on my list for next time.
Bookshop cafes
At some point you’ll need to take a break from all that book shopping… Continuing on with the bookish theme, there are a few lovely little cafes in town that you can visit to rest your weary legs and crack open your new reads. Or of course, buy some more books!
The first bookish cafe that I came across was Beltie Books & Cafe, which is located just a few doors down from Faodail. Their website promises books, coffee, tea, cake, lunch and art - which is a winning combination for any book lover. If you’re looking for another option, or somewhere to have your second cup of tea perhaps, then head back up the road to ReadingLasses Bookshop & Cafe. Not only is the exterior a charming pale pink, but they specialise in books written by women, which their whole front room is dedicated to. They even stock books directly from the wonderful Persephone Books in London (one of my favourite bookshops, read more about them here). Yet more books are stocked in the shop’s middle room and comfy seating is scattered throughout, perfect for a spot of reading, accompanied by a coffee and a piece of cake. If you’re after a more formal sit-down lunch, that’s catered for too; just head over to the cafe.
For an exclusively vegetarian and vegan cafe, you’ll want to visit the Glaisnock Guest House and Cafe. Their seasonal book themed eatery called Shoots and Leaves sounds delicious, and the guest house itself sells books too.
Final thoughts
It’s indisputable, Wigtown is a book lover’s dream come true. The three hours that I spent there just weren’t enough, and I frequently find myself staring out of windows, dreaming about the day that I’ll be able to go back. My advice to you: pack your bags and get yourself up to the south of Scotland, so that you can visit this gorgeous gem for yourself. You won’t be disappointed!